Using LGB Track Contacts & RR Concepts Controls

The following is based on information by Curtis Roecks of RR-Concepts.com

QUESTION: Can the LGB 1701 Track Contact (reed switch) be used with the Railroad Concepts units.

• Yes, you can use the LGB Track Contacts to operate the Railroad Concepts units with no problem as long as you are using AC current for the controls. LGB designed these to be used with AC current.
  
• If you're using DC for the control current, there's an additional complication. You need to make sure you use the correct 2 terminals. LGB designed them to be used with AC; so there are diodes to rectify the AC to DC; i.e. they performed what is referred to as a "half-wave rectification" to convert AC input to DC output to drive the 1203 switch motors. If you try to run DC through the diode the wrong way, the diode will stop the current -- so you need to make sure you use the correct pair of terminals on the Track Contact.
  
• Note that ANYTHING that connects the 2 sensor terminals on the Roecks unit will work. This can be a Roecks-supplied reed switch, any other reed switch, a doorbell switch, or a paperclip or wire manually touched to the 2 terminals.

Finding Magnets For Use With LGB Track Contacts

At 1:45 AM -0500 11/20/08, Ingram-James1-Private wrote:

• SUBJECT: Using round RR Concepts magnets with LGB track contacts
  Curtis -
• This past Sunday, we were trying to use RR Concepts magnets (the large ones), with LGB track contacts (since we cannot find LGB magnets anymore).
  
• Even though the magnet you supply seems about 10 times stronger than the LGB magnet, the round RR Concepts magnet did not seem to reliably actuate the one LGB contact in our LooseTies.com system.
• When we used the rectangular LGB magnet instead of the round RRC magnet, that particular track contact then seemed to work reliably .
• THUS: It appears at first glance, that the rectangular shape of the LGB magnet may better activate the the LGB track contact ???

At 6:15 AM -0800 11/20/08, Curtis Roecks wrote:

• Another interesting fact about the LGB turnout switching system is that they use the reed switch as a direct switch to throw the turnout. This means that fast moving trains have less time to power the turnout. Slower trains would work more reliably since the reed switch would be closed for a longer time.
  
  
• My system uses sensors which just trigger an electronic circuit. The smallest blip would work just fine for me. I'm looking for sensing distance (strong magnets and hidden sensors) while LGB needs longer sensing time. (rectangular magnets very close to the sensor)
  
  
• For my sensors, I've noticed that I will get a better sensing when the magnet passes over the ends of the sensor instead of directly over the center. Maybe you can play with that too by offsetting your magnets. With my sensors and 2 additional diodes it is also possible to emulate the LGB 17000 if that's what you wanted to do.

At 8:35 AM +0000 11/20/08, Gary Lane wrote:

• First test the problem switch with a magnet held in your hand. If the magnet fails to activate the switch try another magnet. If only an LGB engine type magnet works, and you do not have any, buy a thin rare earth magnet, or place two RR-Concepts magnets under the engine along the centerline. Move the metal LGB magnet holder with two RR-Concepts magnets over the LGB reed switch/track contact to see if it works now. Install the magnets in the pattern that you proved worked.
  
  
• If no magnet activates the switch, look for loose wire connection, or incorrectly wired track contact or power supply for train operation is the same unit that supplies the power for EPL or automatic operation. It is best to use a separate power supply for all switching and semaphore motors from track power supply. If current draw from engines is high enough, switches may not properly activate.
  
  
• LGB magnet fills the width of the track, thus assuring the track contact/reed switch is activated.
• If the RR Concepts magnet is mounted to the side then the contact may not fully activate the reed switch. Placing a magnet on the centerline may improve activation using one magnet under the engine. I have mounted magnets with silicone adhesive, rubber cement, and double sided foam tape like is used to mount radio control plane reciever and battery pack.
  
  
• Place the magnets on both sides of the LGB metal magnet holder/clip or try one one the centerline. Now the magnets should activate any track contact/reed switch.
• - Gary Lane, Eugene, OR

State Of The Automatic Controls Union

"State Of The Automatic Controls Union"
Opinion written 12/6/2008 by James Ingram

Explanation: In the last few of months of 2008, several people have contacted me about the LargeScale automatic controls. Thus the following opinions are being published.

Below On This page
A. LargeScale
B. S Gauge
C. For Further Discussion

A. LargeScale ==

1. The plans for LargeScale automatic controls as detailed in the plans sections on the AutoControls.org website, were made between 1992 and 2007, and used mainly the LGB manufactured "EPL" electromechanical components.
2. Due to LGB going bankrupt and ceasing production sometime around mid 2007, all the LGB components are almost impossible to find, unless you're willing to pay an inflated price on eBay.
   
   RR-Concepts
   
   
3. Along with other electronic manufacturers, the RR Concepts (RR-Concepts.com) family of controls, made by Curtis Roecks of Oceanside, CA; appear to be able to perform some of the same functions that the LGB-based parts could -- plus additional functions that you could never do with the LGB stuff.
   
4. My own actual operating experience with RR Concepts is limited, but others who have used them longer than I have, speak highly of their reliability, in particular Gary Lane of Eugene, Oregon (angelfire.com/or/trainguy/).
5. I have so far done a video demonstration of the RR Concepts "Switching Interface Module" (aka 'SIM') using it to control an S gauge automatic block. It could be used essentially the same way to construct a LargeScale automatic block, since DC current is used in both cases.
6. Turnout Scarcity
7. If you're using the RR Concepts units to control an automatic block where no turnouts are required, no problem.
8. However if you're using RR Concepts units to make an automatic passing siding or similar, then you still need a reliable turnout. Since LGB turnouts are essentially unavailable, the question becomes, "Whose turnouts do you use??" Reportly there can be problems with Aristo Craft turnouts. We currently have no data for using USA Trains turnouts for automatic controls.
   
   B. S Gauge ==
   
   
9. I have so far done a video demonstration of the RR Concepts "Switching Interface Module" (aka 'SIM') using it to control an S gauge automatic block.
10. We have a 2nd S gauge video "in the works", where we used reed switches and automotive relays to operate an "Automatic Passing Siding" using American Flyer switches. We hope to have this video online in early 2009.
    
    C. Further Discussion ==
    
    
11. Emailed questions just tend to pile up in my "to do" mailbox, as it takes too much time to for me to compose and return long emailed explanations.
    
    
12. Therefore, if you have any further questions you wish to discuss with me, please call my landline number 570-322-7597 between 2 pm and midnight EST (messages can be left anytime). If I miss the call, I return all calls inside the continental USA.
    
    Note I will not 'pick up' your call if Caller Id identifies it as either 'anonymous' or 'unavailable, but I will still return your message.
    

Other RR Concepts Info (from Curtis Roecks)

1. Max Amps For SIM (Switching Interface Module) and StationStopper

At 3:14 AM -0400 11/8/08, Ingram-James1-Private wrote:

• On your web page for the SIM, you state 3 amps at 250 volts.
• Would this also be the same for the StationStopper ??
• Can this be any higher amps at 24 volts (G scale max volts) ?? You sent me an email a while back, that implied (I think) that the relays could probably handle more amps at lower voltages.
• This won't be an "issue" for S gauge-only stuff, but it might be for designs that can work for G gauge.

At 10:04 AM -0800 11/8/08, Curtis Roecks wrote:

• Here's the part.. 60W 125VA You could turn on a 60 watt light bulb, or 3 amps at 220volts. I think 60 watts means more current at lower voltages. I've run a 10 amp power supply with lots of engines for years with no problems, and I have not heard of one ever failing except when someone put power into the sensor lines.

2. SIM With Time Delay

At 3:14 AM -0400 11/8/08, Ingram-James1-Private wrote:

• Your price list says
• "All the features of the Switching Interface Module PLUS Time Delay Action!
• Once triggered, switches to original state after time delay.
• Adjustable time delay."

• I assume that the time delay is the same for both Sensor A and Sensor B ??
• The delay is not independently adjustable for each sensor, is it ???
• Or does it use just one sensor ??

At 10:04 AM -0800 11/8/08, Curtis Roecks wrote:

• It's very low tech.. just a timer. There are jumpers inside which you can set for where you want the delay. You can trigger and then have it switch after the delay, (like a fuse) or switch and have it switch back after the delay. (like the StationStopper) It's only for one channel. With this you could have crossing lights or something come on with 1 sensor and automatically turn off after a delay.

Gary Lane Comments On Latching Relays

Ingram's comment: This helful information really should be on Gary's OWN website (angelfire.com/or/trainguy/) (), but since it's not, I am trying to "capture" it here.

At 1:16 AM -0700 5/7/07, Gary Lane wrote:

I have used Ingram and LGB EPL diagrams to make a number of automatic public displays.
Why do I like latching relays over LGB switch motor with 1203/DPDT (double pole double throw switch)?

1. Since I installed restaurant LGB train displays using EPL components, I soon discovered that the system kept jamming due to engines parking on top of 1700 reed switches or due to LGB switch motors not fully moving to throw the 1203 DPDT switches. This led to train crashes or simply a lock up of the system until I could drive 120 miles or 155 miles to the restaurants to make adjustments.
   
   When I switched to RR Concepts latching relays the number of layout failures dropped dramatically and the reasons changed to staff idiotic “adjustments” or customers tossing jelly containers or peanuts or silverware onto track. Incidentally, since LGB’s Jumbo transformer has an automatically resetting circuit breaker, I had to install a manually reset circuit breaker to the track wires so that short circuits were not constantly being reset. The manual reset circuit breaker forced staff to remove the silverware or other metal item that was shorting the track power.
   
   
2. A latching relay has a motor like LGB’s turnout/switch motor that moves several on/off switches (contacts or relays that often offer more options than the LGB 1203 switches). Latching relays are much more reliable than LGB’s system. Latching relays vary in specs for the motor and the switch. For example one relay might only need 3 VDC to throw the relay, yet the contacts can handle 100 amps. Another unit might require 6 VDC to move the contacts, yet the contacts can handle less than .25 amps. This is initially a bit daunting for a person who is familiar only with LGB components.
   
   
3. LGB components are prone to not moving completely and therefore may not throw the DPDT switch completely. LGB switch machine and the old 1203 have to overcome a lot of friction and spring tension to move the two mated components that LGB used as a latching relay. LGB’s switch motor can also jump gears and end up not being able to move equally in both directions. A dedicated latching relay requires very little energy to move the contacts, therefore the latching relay virtually never misfires. Telephone companies used latching relays for many decades and may still for all I know. Phone companies had to have reliable equipment. Bottom Line: A latching relay is a more reliable and more compact option than LGB’s expensive two part system.
   
   
4. The problem with a latching relay is the more complex circuitry options. Only two leads are for the motor to move the contacts. Contacts available may include normally open and normally closed contacts. The normally open type is what train nuts would usually wish to use. Normally Open means the default position of the relay is for No Electricity to flow.
   
   Only when an electric impulse from a reed switch activated by a magnet under an engine (or if you wish an optical or motion sensor) forces the switch motor to move the contact to a Closed or On position is the Normally Open contact/switch Closed or completing a circuit. Usually a second reed switch will then open the circuit or turn it off when the engine passes over a second reed switch. A reed switch can be one of the two varieties LGB made or a simple cheap reed switch taped to a track tie.
   
   
5. I like the much smaller size latching relays than the LGB switch motor with attached ON/OFF set of two switches (1203 or newer version).
   
   
6. There are surplus latching relays I have set up inside the operating Pola Crossing Keeper hut. Those units are the size of two 35mm film cans end to end. Still pretty large, but the relays were only $3 each at an electronic salvage shop (now out of business). Relays the size of half a wine cork easily handle the amp and voltage loads common on our layouts (< 25 VDC or AC and < 25 amps). ( < = less than, < = less than or equal to) Just specify the volt and amp limits to a sales clerk at Radio Shack or a real electronics parts store. Tell them you want at least two normally open contacts and you want clear instructions so you know how to wire it.
   
   
7. Short article comparing relay vs latching relay:
   geofex.com/Article_Folders/relays/relays_for_switching_audio_signa.htm
   
   
8. Radio Shack page of relays:
   http://www.radioshack.com/search/index.jsp?kwCatId=&kw=relay&origkw=relay&sr=1
   Scroll down to see several latching relays that only require 12 VDC to “throw the equivalent of the LGB switch motor, and the relay handles 3-10 amps. Note prices are usually about $9. Instead of buying an $18 LGB switch motor and another $12 or more for the DPDT switch, pay $9 or 30% of the LGB tab that is also much less reliable and takes far more room. If your power pack puts out 25 VAC you will need to reduce the voltage that arrives with resistors or a zener diode or simply use a 12 VAC transformer for your latching relays.
   
   
9. Like Jim Ingram, I am not a trained electrician. I can apply logic and follow simple diagrams. I also ask for help or information if I am not sure. Curtis Roecks of RR Concepts is an electrical engineer who knows subminiature components and circuits. His latching relay is larger, but is specifically set up for model train use and is very difficult to burn out.
   
   All terminals accept 18 gauge wire easily and clamp with a small screwdriver. His drawings are very easy to read. His units have well labeled terminals and adjustment pots. RR-concepts.com
   

I hope this has helped you to look into using latching relays.

Using SwitchMaster With 3-Terminal Switches (from Curtis Roecks)

Using SwitchMaster With 3-Terminal Switches:

At 6:31 AM -0800 3/31/08, James Ingram wrote:

• I think I saw a note somewhere in one of your emails, that switches that had 3 terminal inputs instead of 2 terminal inputs, could be wired up to the SwitchMaster, using diodes.

At 9:03 PM -0800 3/12/08, Curtis Roecks wrote:

• If it has three terminals, then a two diode arrangement will also work.
• This is how I control HO scale turnouts with a SwitchMaster.
• . . .It's very easy. Please see the attached drawing.

(click image to view larger)

B7 Gary Lane's Experiences w/RR-Concepts Controls

On Apr 23, 2007, at 1:14 PM, Gary wrote: (referring to using LGB Jumbo for gradual deceleration of trains)

• I love my Jumbo and have set it up a number of times to accelerate and
decelerate on various layouts. The LGB Jumbo requires use of LGB reed
switches that have two diodes and a capacitor installed bringing the 
cost for each one over $15.

• RR-concepts.com -- Lower Cost & More Reliable
 Option
 -- RR Concepts station master and other products are a better choice in 
my opinion.
  
  
• I have a unit installed in a restaurant for over ten years 
that has reliably operated all that time seven days a week during open 
hours for four owners of the restaurant. Reed switches are very low
 cost. $5 each if you buy RR Concepts wired reed switches. If you buy 
bulk normally-open reeds, cost drops to about $1 each, but you will 
have to solder your own wires onto the leads.
  
  
• The Station Master and
 other products are simple to wire and set up, just follow his 
directions, which are on his site as well. Latching relays and all
 contacts are high quality gold plated. He has protected his circuits 
to help prevent accidentally misstaken wiring and blowing a circuit board.
 Very well thought out units. Slow down and speed up rates are 
adjustable. Delay time or time spent stopped is adjustable. If you
want longer times than he usually installs, ask him and he can make a 
unit with longer times.
  


• Don't use a Jumbo for each section of track you wish to control (OK you
 might be able to control more than one block, if you can guarantee 
that each controlled block will never be activated at the same time as
another section!). Instead, for the same money, buy multiple lower 
cost units, that work more reliably than the LGB system (I say this 
despite appreciating LGB's offerings for the most part). Place the
 units near the block to be controlled in a building or under 
landscaping.



~ Gary Lane, 
http://www.angelfire.com/or/trainguy/


On Apr 30, 2007, at 6:14 PM, Gary wrote:

• As Tom discovered, the RR Concepts control boxes are a great solution
 for controlling trains at a station stops -- either with a sudden LGB EPL 
style slam to a halt and speed up system or with a Jumbo style
 acceleration and deceleration system. 


• It is possible to set up trains to run on a single track and take 
turns running the oval in opposite directions. 


  
  The Switch Master has a few advantages over LGB's EPL system for 
controlling switches:

• 1. Stronger pulse of electricity ensures switches more reliably are 
completely thrown to the desired position.

• 2. RR Concepts reed switches are $5 each vs. LGB 17100 Track Contact
$13.89+

• 3. The unit works even if an engine parks on top of the Track Contact
 unlike LGB's which will shut down the entire system if a magnet-
equipped engine parks on top of the contact.
  


• The Switching Interface Module has a few advantages over LGB's 1203
 connected to a switch motor. 

• 1. RR Concepts' latching relay is far more reliable than the heavily
 sprung LGB system that has to move the switch motor and the 1203 
spring-loaded switch.
  
• LGB's system often fails to completely move the 
switch motor. It requires far less amperage to operate and does not 
have to overcome the high friction problems inherent in LGB's switch
 motors and the 1203 double pole switches.
• 
2. Gold contacts ensure no build up of oxidized metals = reliable.

• 3. Since there are no exposed moving parts, dirt, grit, grease, etc., 
cannot stop the unit unlike LGB's switch motor which all too often 
gets disabled by dirt.
  

  While I have used RR Concepts units for a long time and have discussed
 possible improvements to his prototype R&D model, I have no financial 
interest in his home-based enterprise. I do admit I am very grateful 
he has continued to produce and develop his product line of well
 thought out model train automation products.

LGB Switch Motors On Aristo Turnouts

SUBJECT: Using an LGB switch motor on an Aristo Craft Turnout, for more reliable operation

Information for this page is provided by Ted Ansley from the Washington DC area & presently Bangkok, Thailand.

See also Ted's Flickr web page named G Scale Automatic Control Circuits.
( http://www.flickr.com/photos/ansleys/sets/72157608433287430/ )

~~~~~~~~~~~

The following photo of an Aristo Turnout, shows the 11/16/08 replacement of the Aristo Craft switch motor, with an LGB switch motor. (Part of the LooseTies.com Automatic Switching Block system.)

Above photo by James Ingram

All below information provided by Ted Ansley.

• Ted describes how he put an LGB switch motor on an Aristo Craft turnout, to make the turnout work reliably on the automatic passing siding he built.
• I have attached a screen shot of one of Ted's Flickr pages, that shows the "hybrid" turnout.
• The below screen shot is from Ted's next-to-the-last web page,
  G Scale Automatic Control Circuits.

Above photo from Ted's
G Scale Automatic Control Circuits website

Below is the information that he sent. I will try to summarize what he said:

• (1) The LGB switch motor fits right on the Aristo Craft turnout
• (2) He had problems with the Aristo Craft switch motors not working well
• (3) He says the "hybrid" switch works just as reliably as an LGB switch.

At 2:29 AM -0400 10/31/08, Ingram-James1-Private wrote:
Ted - Please tell me anything you think might be useful for me to know, including the following: How do you get the motor mounted? I would assume the LGB motor and Aristo switch mounting interface would not be compatible?

At 11:18 AM -0400 10/31/08, Ted Ansley wrote:

• (1) They are completely compatible, right down to the screw holes on the switches are all in the same places. This is true for both the 4 ft dia. and 10 ft. dia Aristo switches. Note that the 10ft dia. switches are ONLY availble with American style ties (smaller and more per foot) so if you looking for a 100% match in scale then consider that. I do own one 8 ft LGB switch, but when I started looking for the bigger switches the Aristo ones came highly recommend by my train club, and many of those guys use 10 dia curves.

• I was lucky in that the first two switches I bought a couple of years ago at my local hobby store were manual aristos (4ft). The guy there asked if I was putting them outside, I said no, because I had asked about adding remote switch machines in the future. He said the (2) Aristo machines weren't that good, but would be ok inside, and LGB machines were much better. He indicated they were 100% compatible.

• I eventually bought a lot of 6 used Aristo switches online, and a few LGB ones. I also bought some Aristo machines online and some LGB 71250? swtich control boxes. My original layout had 3 loops of track, with 2 sidings, and 10 4 ft. dia switches, 3 were LGB, 7 were AC. I had about 4 LGB switch machines and 6 AC. I had (2) all sorts of issues getting the Aristo Craft ones to work well, maybe 1 or 2 worked well but the others were very un-reliable. I essentially verified what the guy had told me.

• So, I when I had money I would go to my local hobby store (Star Hobby in Annapolis MD..great store), and they were selling 12010's for $21, this was 1-1.5 years ago. I also bought one or two on ebay, and 2 more used LGB switches with them installed. Eventually I converted most of my remote switches to LGB switch machines.

• Right now I think I have 12 or 13 LGB switch machines and 6 12070 and 12030s (supplemental switches -relays) including what is in the two autocontrol boxes I built. When I saw your plans I never hesitated to use the LGB machines on the large dia. AC switches. Get a hold of an AC switch, you'll see they are almost identical. (3) They work VERY reliably with LGB machines, I see no difference in switch operation or reliability, just in the switch machines.

• I know I mentioned this too, I like using the AC track whenever I need blocks, because the connectors come off so easy and I replace them with the plastic ones. I have about 20 of those plastic insulated rail joiners, mostly AC, but I have 6 or 7 LGB ones too. They are identical, but the AC ones are black and the LGB ones are yellow. I like the black ones.

Possible Piko Replacement for Now-Hard-to-Find LGB Switch Motor

• Also, check out this link ( http://www.piko.de/produkt_db/check.php?page=detail&grand_id=6&parent_id=5&child_id=0&id=35271 ) to see what PIKO is coming out with.
• According to the Silvergate Distributors web page, and Star Hobby, they will be available soon. Suggested Retail is $49.99, I suspect they will be about $30.

From Piko website (using above link), 8/11/08

Ingram-James1-Private wrote:
Does the "hybrid" switch operate as reliably as an LGB switch ?

• I didn't have any trouble burning out anything using my AC switch machines with the LGB control boxes, or with LGB switches, I just found they don't "throw" well or reliably. I brought this up with an AC rep at the York show 2 years, he simply told me to call their service number and return all the un-reliable switch machines and they would probably replace them. Being busy, and forgetful, I forgot to do it!

Regards, Ted

=== This page updated 12/06/2008 by James R. Ingram ===

108-S Ga. 1-Track Auto. Block

Project 108 - Notes

:
The below drawing shows the wiring diagram for the 1-track automatic block demonstrated in the AutoControls YouTube Video #8 " S Ga. Auto. Block Using RR Concepts SIM" . This wiring diagram is NOT recommended for use, because it would work much better with a 2nd rheostat. Use the diagram for Project 208 2-track Automatic Switching Block" as a reference.

Click on the below image to
open it LARGER.

(Project Folder #107)

208-S Ga. 2-Track Auto. Switching Block

UPDATE Jan 2009: A Project 208 page has been added
showing Nov 2008 photos of the as-built unit.


Project 208 - Notes, July 2008

Note: The next-to-last drawing on this page (Image 4 down below), shows the preliminary wiring diagram.

A. Overview

• This web page describes some preliminary work on an S-gauge "Automatic Switching Block", using American Flyer track switches. This system will control up to 3 trains on 1 track. It should work with AC, DC, or DCC; since it uses simple, open/closed relays for stopping, and rheostats for "slowdown" sections.
  
  
• Brand Of Switches -- The plans on this page, use the old American Flyer switches, that require a lot of current. If you used a newer, different brand of track switch other than American Flyer switches that required less current, that did not have such enormous (6 amps per pair) amperage requirements, then you could probably use one of the electronic switch control units, such as the Railroad Concepts "SwitchMaster".
  
  
• No Data On Other Brands of Switches -- I don't believe there is much data on how well the various brands of S gauge switches will operate in an automatic control system like this. Dennis Oberholtzer and Mark Anderman demonstrated in their video that it can be done with the original AF switches. I don't think anybody really knows how the other brands will function when used in this kind of application.
  

• Operate Sidings Only -- The "block" part can also be "powered-down" to operate 2 trains in the traditional "Automatic Passing Siding", where 1 train pulls in on the 1st siding, and then the other train pulls out.
  
  

B. Related Videos

• There are already YouTube videos that show parts of this system, as follows:
  
  

1. The YouTube AutoControls Video #1 "How-It-Works 2-Track Auto. LGB Yard" shows a LargeScale Automatic Switching Block in various operating modes using just 1 train, 2 trains, and 3 trains.
   
   The S gauge system would use the same logic; we just need to "replicate" it in S gauge.
   
   
2. The YouTube Video "Susquehanna S Gaugers 'Steamup', Automatic Control" made by Mark Anderman, shows a similar system operating in S gauge. But in this video, they used the American Flyer pressure-sensitive track contacts, and they used a 3rd block on the mainline to stop the 3rd train. [click here for wiring sketch and notes].
   
   For the system shown on this web page, we plan to use reed switches instead of the AF track trips, and we plan to eliminate the 3rd block.
   
   
3. The AutoControls YouTube Video #8 " S Ga. Auto. Block Using RR Concepts SIM" shows a plain S gauge Automatic Block in operation. The plans shown below incorporate the same Railroad Concepts "Switching Interface Module" (essentially a Double-Pole Double-Throw {DPDT} latching relay) to handle the "block" part of the operation.

C. Mark Anderman's Demo Unit

Click on any of the below images to
open it LARGER size.

Image 1 - Mark Anderman's Demo Unit

• The above photo shows a demonstration unit built by Mark Anderman, using reed switches and automotive relays with rectifiers to activative an American Flyer switch. Note he used relays, because some of the electronic switch controllers probably would not work with an American Flyer switch, because of its high amperage requirements.
  
  
• Using Michael Green's "Getting Started with
  NMRA DCC with specifics & examples for S Scale" (a PDF doument published in 2002, available from the DccInfo.com's 'Clinic Handouts' web page) as a reference source; the document states on page 27, "American Flyer remote control turnouts draw over 3 amps to throw the turnout, and American Models remote control turnouts draw approximately 1.25 amps". Therefore operating a PAIR of AF switches for this siding would require about 6 amps.
  
  
• Mark has been selling some of these relay & rectifier assemblies on eBay -- look for user 'manderman'.
  

Image 2 - Mark Anderman's Drawing for AF Switch Control

• The above drawing was made by Mark Anderman, and shows the wiring diagram for hooking up a pair of American Flyer switches, controlled by reed switches and relays.
  

D. Logic Diagram

Image 3 -- Logic Diagrams for Automatic Train Control

• The above drawing shows the "Logic Drawing" for an Automatic Switching Block. The 3rd diagram on the drawing, 'Figure G', shows the logic for controlling 3 trains. Parts of the control can be turned off to control 2 trains using either the block-only or sidings-only, as shown by the 1st two diagrams on the drawing.
  
  
• Video Demos - The first 3 modes are demonstrated on the above-referenced LargeScale Video #1 How-It-Works. The last mode, "Automatic Route Selection", is demonstrated in LargeScale Video #6 "Automatic Route Selection".
  

E. Wiring Diagram (Preliminary)

Image 4 -- Preliminary Wiring Diagram
for S-gauge Automatic Switching Block

• The above drawing shows a PRELIMINARY wiring diagram, using American Flyer switches. WARNING: This drawing may have some minor errors in it, and needs to be tested.
  

F. Additional Comments

• Note the terminals 17 through 24 and the SIM (Switching Interface Module) are for the blocking part. For just the switching function, you could eliminate all these wires and the SIM, and connect Wire #37 coming from the Startup rheostat to terminal 15, which would be the same as putting the block permanently in the green position.
  
  
• Note Terminals 14 is "reserved" to go to the other siding, if we used some other type of switch that was non-power-routing. We'd also need to add a 2nd SIM or latching relay to route the power to the proper siding.
  
  
• Note my notes show DC track power, but AC or DCC could be used as well.
  
  
• For this design, normally the gaps would be only in the right (+ rail. (It would also work if the left (-) rail had the gaps)). But I think we need gaps in BOTH rails, by the curved leg of the switch, because the switch wants to "kill" the inside rail to stop the train when the switch is straight, and if there was not a gap in the left rail, current would come through from the other switch.

Image 5 -- A similar control unit for a G-gauge
Automatic Switching Block (from Plans Folder 206)

• Note in the unit shown in the above photo, LGB switch motors & plug-in DPDT relay points were used for controlling both the siding and the block. In contrast, the S-gauge unit uses automotive relays to control the siding, and a Railroad Concepts SIM to control the block.

(Project Folder #208)